Chavand- A Memoir Indeed

When a trekker or devotee of SHIVAJI Maharaj thinks of Junnar, he recalls Shivneri birth place of Shivaji Maharaj. To begin with, there is Lenyadri, Chavand, Hadsar & Narayangad which can be seen if a two days trek is planned to Shivneri. We decided to go with Shivneri Chavand plan and accordingly we left with Kalyan-Narayangad bus of Saturday morning getting down at Bankar-phata. We digged a place for ourselves 15 accommodated 10 seater jeep with all our trekking gear which was heading towards Junnar Suhas and Amey had to travel standing behind the jeep as they had sacks which we were unable to adjust inside the jeep. With Pankaj who was enjoying only his second trek, I was sharing my knowledge of history & geography of that region. Suddenly after my brief mach-mach there was questionnaire spree from Pankaj & Sandeep. Till this time I was unaware that anyone other than Pankaj was listening to me. But by God’s grace I was able to answer all their questions. By the time the answers were finished, we reached the chowk from where our trial had to start.


After refilling our water bottles & having our breakfast we started scrolling towards the Fort. We climbed the fort through “Sakhli waat”. Already it was decided to give more attention to the details which we had grasped in our earlier visits. We reached the caves which seemed to cursing themselves of seeing this day instead of cherishing on the glorious days it had prospered in the past. Suhas, Amey & I started our study with the available remnants of caves while Sandeep & other watching the areas nearby with the binoculars with Pankaj busy in his drawing feat.

Thanks to most of the people who came there, as because of their affectionate act of writing their names on all the available spaces we were not made to give more strain to our brains and had to stop after spending very less efforts. Hence as a token to their affection for us, we felt that these guys should be heavily penalized.

After disappointment deep in us we climbed the fort to see a descent amount of indecent crowd, majority of them here unaware of the importance of the place to their life and have forgot all the lessons of cleanliness taught to them in their homes & schools Even in such conditions “Shivneri” was able to maintain the beauty and divine dignity which it had occurred due to birth of Shivaji Maharaj. After visiting all the historic places of Shivneri & having our lunch in between we started descending down through 7 gates - in search of caves. We traversed to the caves to the left hand side of .Shivai Mandir which seemed to be visited by fewer amount of people. Dispiriting is that, this conclusion was derived from less number of names on the walls of these caves. We started observing the details of these caves and were also photographing the same. Few shilalekhs are available in these caves , but are difficult to read. At this point of this article I appeal readers, if they have photographs of these caves taken some years back. Please contact us at Contact@ TreKshitiZ.com
Then it was time to leave for Chavand village where we were going to make our halt for the day. We reached Chavand village in time and as it was Dussera, atmosphere in the village was Festive. We went to the house of “ teacher at the school in village. Very soon we were surrounded by many of the small children in the village which were very eager to give us the “ Sona “ local name for “ “ which is distributed among people in Dussera as a tradition. Then came a boy with a necklace made of these
Leaves. This was just a beginning of heart warming gestures from the village kids and within a short time we ran out of place to keep the “ “ leaves given to us . That was the experience which we would be cherishing throughout our life. By the time all this finished, the teacher come to place and after exchanging “Sona” we asked them to permit us to display the mount boards on which the information of Chavand and Kukdeshwar was given. We were asked about the details of these mount boards and the moment we said to them that these boards have history and other details of the surrounding the History teacher was pleased and gave us the location where these mounts boards can be located and also assured us that he will take full responsibility of these boards and prevent any damage to them. We again felt like burdened under the warm gestures given to us by the village.
When we were discussing about the villagers we came across the fact that village also had an Ashram-Shala which had more than 250 students in it. We also noticed that for this amount of students, in a scorpio & snake prone area the only available health care centre was at Junnar. Principal of the school who also reached the scene educated us on the fact that it takes an hour to reach Junnar health care center which is merely 18 kilometers away. Thanks to the contractor who built this road
When the discussion was turned towards the fort, Principal told us that along with Shivneri, Shivaji-Maharaj also had resided on Chavand in his early childhood. But with no proof supporting this fact, it was hard for us to digest it.
Then we were asked by the history teacher to stay at his place, but we decided to stay in school so that we can have some interaction with students. The building where we deposited all our trekking gear was a college hostel & had 25-30 students staying there. Later we came to know that some of them were from villages near Thane, which indicates that, this area certainly got a substantial amount of recognition. This was yet another fact to make us realize the importance of development in this village.
After having our dinner in the veranda of the hostel, interaction with hostel guys was on agenda. While having some discussions one suddenly invited us for playing the game of Chess. Soon it was best player in the village who practiced the game daily for at least an hour against a poor fellow like me. After some time it was to my surprise that I had won the game. While the game of Chess was in progress Amey & Suhas were having discussion with other students. Amey was asking about the study plan of the students & Suhas was discussing the history/geography of the area with them
As the stars in the sky becoming brighter our batteries were getting dimmer & we decided to take rest for a day. Next day we got up early and started climbing the fort. Flower photography, Bird watching, Gossip continued as we neared the summit. The way was having some railings in between installed by a Forest Officer for the convenience of trekkers and villagers. A hearty thanks from all trekking community to this kind hearted officer.
The landscape from the top of the fort was idyllic Shivneri, Hadsar, Manikdoh dam, Jeevdhan & the plateau of Naneghat. Summit was fully covered by grass & -------------flowers with hardly any place to walk. But we still scrolled with the help of hostel friends which also accompanied us and guided us to all the places on the fort. The places one must see on the top of the fort are Pushkarni, seven cisterns, temple of Chamunda devi, and the caves on the north-west side of the fort. Along with these places there are lot many places with lesser importance, need to be attended during one’s visit.
After all this, we came back to the village where it was time to display the informative boards. After all this pleasure giving activities it was time to reach Kukdeshwar and on our way we met the Sarpanch of the village who was already aware of what we doing in school and appreciated us for the same. This appreciation gaves us tremendous amount of encouragement to continue with such kind of activities.After taking a promise about staying at his place when we will visit Chavand next time. He help us till the mainroad from where we marched towards Kukdeshwar.
Amey & Suhas distributed the books of history of forts and after handing the presentation file to the history teacher there was s demand for a photo ssession from the village kids.
Kukdeshwar was yet another aye opener about the efforts, needs to be invested by
Authorities & public regarding the protect of this ancient plus very spectal monuments. A S I has certainly tried to give justice in this temple, but the progress of work left us worried.
Any way summing up I would say that we had quenched our thirst for a perfect
Trek ( with all planned ctivities completed accordingly) ofcourse with a guilt of not being able to contribute the damage happening in fortof our eyes. If you have any information
About activities being done to save these monument . Please mail us at contact@ trekshitiz.com.


Harshal .R. Mahajan.
www.Trekshitiz.com.

Alang Madan

I had been trekking for last seven years now but still stuffs like rock climbing were practically new for me. This entire remained dream till my good friend Amit informed me that Mr Sanjay Lokhre had planned a trek at Alanggad, Madangad. These forts were kept away from our list of future treks, as little knowledge of climbing was necessary along with the instruments.

So the trek was planned and it was decided to meet at Sanjay’s photo studio. At 12 am we all came together at the meeting point. We had our SUMO jeep with us for travelling. All the sacks were checked for necessary equipments and were packed on the top of the jeep. After packing Dilip prayed to god for our safety and we started our journey. As soon as the jeep turtled trough the road front lights were put on which slashed the foggy night.

As everyone came from its daily routine job everyone other that Dilip preferred to have an nap instead hullagulla. At 1.30 in the night we reached at Kasara ghat, we had a cup of tea at that place and started our journey again. Early morning at 5 we reach at that Khed , and assuming it to be Ambewadi which is our base village we decided to have some rest at that place. So after some time we discovered our mistake and again got back in our jeep and went in the search of Ambewadi village. At last traversing through the convoluted routes at 6 we reached Ambewadi village.


Having some refreshments in one of the house at Ambewadi we decided to start our trek towards Alanggad. By the time we started our actual climb it was 7.15 As the sun started rising, the light which was falling on these ranges made it look baroque The scenery from the base pumped us with animation and we found our selves minuscule in front of prodigiousness of our Mother Nature.

Now each one of us was moving towards the base of the valley, which was to be shinned up. Aiming at a “V” shaped valley near about 1200 meters above the sea level we started our climb. Along with climbing the excellent photographers like Shrikant (Bandya), Sanjay and Raghu carried on with their hobby of photography. These photographers exploited every chance they got.
With a dry waterfall in the background and sunlight filtering through the trees at an angle, it was as if studio has been set up in the jungle by the gods just for us.


Climbing through the valley went on till we found out a group doing rappelling on 100-foot patch, which would take us to the top directly. Looking at thrill, which was enclosed in that act we decided to go for rappelling instead of traversing through a narrow path, which would have led to 5-hour strenuous trek. Vijay asked for the feasibility of the route to the group, which was descending through that route. As the OK signal came from the group we changed our directions towards the patch. After climbing the patch we decided to have our meal and then to march ahead. We reached the top of the mountain at 3.30 from where our destination was clearly visible. Behind this mountain there raised a deep valley giving its stretch of forest the look of an amphitheatre. The January sun had turned the grass semi brown and as it was late afternoon the birds and the animals were still in there shade. The brooding and silent forest was dictating its tales of very little contact with humans. Our destination was the cave, which could have been an Buddha vihar in ancient times

As the lead climber had to remove all the ropes attached he, Sanjay came last at the 5 in the cave where we have to reside till next morning. In the evening after having our tea we went in search of water, which we could use for cooking purposes. The candle light dinner was another heart-warming experience, which we had on the fort. Each of us taking care that whatever he has brought is being shared by each of us. This showed the co-operation, which we were able to indulge in us, even after being friends for just 20 hours. After the heavy glut it was surely the time to have fully deserved rest. So as decided earlier we got up at 6 in the morning and went to see the rest of the fort and the sunrise. Climbing the hillock above the caves we reach the place where a chain of water cisterns lied. Photography continued as the sun started rising with all its beauty.
From here we defiled to the spot where the remnants of the ancient houses along with an artificial lake having two partitions in it. From the top most point, which was nearly 1450 meters above the scenery, was really very amazing. To the north of this fort the views of Kalsubai, Avandh, Patta , Bitangad, Harihar , Trimbak invited us to trek them. To the west lied the forts of Madangad, Kulanggad along with Ratan , Ajoba and Harischandragad in the south. Ghatghar dam which in the southwest direction was not visible because of the heavy morning fog.

After seeing the entire fort it was time to return to the cave and have our “NASHTA” which Raghu had prepared. After having the delicious “UPMA” and steaming glassful of tea we started to march towards the Madangad. After descending through the rock patch we reached to point from where the going was fairly level. Even if the going was fairly level one had to keep his eyes open for any danger that may have been hiding in our next step. Reason for the danger was the large exposure on the right hand side along with the loose scree over it. Traversing this path and after climbing some steps we reached a point where the need of technical climbing aroused again. Once again the lead climbers started preparations while we discussed various climbing issues with Dilip. We climbed the patch and then proceeded towards the destiny by ascending on a convoluted route.
Then we reached the point, which gave us wonderful view of Alanggad and also the valley that connected these patronizing loci. From this place z-shaped steps are to be climbed. These steps are also visible from the cave at Alang. After climbing these steps we come across a cistern, which we used for our water supply for the period we stayed on the fort. We were to put up at a beautiful cave, which was situated some 40 to 50 feet above the cistern. We went to the cave and laid our rug sacks inside it. As juniors like me and $$$ climbed the patch first we came to the cave followed by Raghu. Within next one hour each one of us accumulated at the cave. After having a glance of all the scenery around the cave it was time to climb to the topmost point of the fort. Leaving our sacks behind we marched ahead with cameras for getting the glimpse of the sun diving behind the array of mountains behind Kulung fort. Three of us were lazing in the diving sun till the call from Sanjay came for descending down to the base of the hole. This descend trough the hole was a splendid experience and Me, Amit and Jogdev sir were only the lucky ones who got such chance in their very first climbing portrayal. As it was dark by the times all of us descended down the returning journey from base of the hole to the cave proved to be little risky. While returning towards the cave Vijay decided to go first.
As he walked on the narrow sledge below, which there was a 3500 feet fall, the rope to, which he was anchored, got stuck and he found difficulty in moving ahead. He called for Sanjay’s help as only Sanjay was in position that could have released to rope. But with wind blowing very excitingly it was difficult for Vijay’s voice to reach to Sanjay. As no one was coming up Sanjay also gave us a call, and unaware of the problem being faced by Vijay he kept calling us, which later made problems with his voice. At the same time from opposite side came the helping hand of Joshi who helped Vijay and all of us to traverse the sledge safely. After reaching the cave safely Vijay took a breather

At 8 after once again having our candle light dinner, we decided to talk about the experiences of each other. At this time I was sitting outside the cave and enjoying the experimentation of my new knowledge about the stars and their position. After that it was the time for having a good sleep, although this day of trek to Madan was not as tiring as on Alanggad.

Next day early morning, Jogdev sir who had woken up before us called out to us to take a look. Everything was still as if the world had not yet woken up from its nightly sleep. There was heavy mist all around, making the face and hands clammy. Not a bird called.
Even the wind seemed to have been stilled by the unworldliness of it . It was not until another half an hour or so that the mist lifted and the birds began to call out tentatively to one another. Another wonderful scene now spread before our eyes—great piles of cloud had drifted down the escarpment and lay at our feet, obscuring the view of gorge below. As far as eyes could see, great ridges of hills lay all around us, stretching to the horizon, their forest-carpeted peaks emerging from the swaddling clouds in a grand primeval spectacle. As we had to leave for the Ambewadi we did nothing more that morning other than to savour that scene and try to capture it on film. After having our tea we left for Ambewadi and reached the village by 11.30 am

After getting refreshed at the base village we piled into our SUMO and started our journey towards our adobe. On the ending note I would say that once again we were forced to realize that “It is only when we leave some of our city bred ideas and wants behind and create space for something new and fresh that we are able to savour to an extent this beautiful gift of nature”

Peth – a hilarious account…

Karjat Station.
It was 2am and we were on a desolate railway platform with a solitary tube light which glowed on its own will and even dimmed on its own , a closed tea stall as last passenger has passed an hour ago and some suspicious employees of railways for company.

Stretching away on both sides as far as the eye could see, which wasn't far in the darkness, were dense ink-black thickets.

With clouds pulling a veil over the moon, light was at a premium.

"Why are we here at this godforsaken place at this time?" Kiran screamed with more than a touch of accusatory inflection in his tone.

I and Amit smiled enigmatically, and Kiran got the answer

All three of us were feeling dizzy but were, trying hard to talk to each other and maintain as cryptic a tone as possible.
I sighed.

Plopping our bags down, we propped ourselves and waited.
Soon enough, like flies zeroing in on a box of goodies, the nosey cops came.
And they were full of questions.

Who were we? Why were we here? Why were we alone? Did we know the place? Were we aware of a recent murder in the thicket to our right? Where were we headed? When would we be back? ... The never-ending questions tumbled out.

All of us drifting quietly into sleep; none of us answered the questions from the cop properly. Looking at us pitifully and giving huge amount of strain to the wrinkles on his forehead he finally decided to leave us alone.

Three of us sighed in chorus

"I am hungry," Amit’s voice unnecessarily interrupted my forty winks. Bleary-eyed, Kiran and I popped out stuff from our sacks and started eating without considering Amit as if we were just set free from a month long hunger strike. Worried Amit snatched a packet from my hand and asked me to share some biscuits with Kiran. After that it was time for tea and we crossed the rails as the tea stall one the opposite platform was getting ready with his tea-gear.

We went to him and asked for tea and he started imagining something. Desperately in need of tea I reminded the absent minded about the tea which we ordered. May be he was also in same state as we were.

After taking all the time available in this world he gave us our tea, but only two cups instead of three. With lot of pain in our eyes we looked at him but finally, in unison decided to share the two cups.

Tea was wonderful and after some time we headed towards bus depot, for a bus to Ambewadi.

Though unconsciously, the spine jarring journey and all of us still feeling sleepy helped us to have some warm up before the actual trek could be commenced.

I sighed for the umpteenth time, and slept again.

We reached the Ambewadi and were delighted to see the country side beauty.

A pink glow began to creep in, slowly obliterating patches of darkness as the sun rose leisurely.

We walked along the kuccha road stretching away towards Peth village. We reached the village with all the village dogs barking at us as if they were here to greet us but as we moved closer we realized that they had some indecent plans and frightened by their behavior as well as their long teeth we moved ahead silently.

"They won't bite," I murmured, seeing Amit count as many as he could without breaking into a sweat.
He swore at me under his breath and kept walking, with snarling dogs keeping me close company.
Reaching the outskirts of the village, we paused, looked around, and then nodded towards a small gully that seemed to be ensconced towards a small hotel in the village.

Soon it was around 9 am, and we had been walking for almost two hours without a break.

Cow dung was used to floor the ground, a frail old woman in a dark green sari doing it patiently.

Ahead, a still narrower path was a way which an old villager prescribed us.

We stared at each other blankly. I don’t know what happened but we started walking again.

By now, the sun was well and truly awake. Looking up casually, I saw a small pinnacle that resembled a finger, trying to reach tufts of soft white clouds.

Peth; An incident in our history when the Killedar of the fort mistook the Mughals as his own people and permitted them to come in and then all the Maratha soldiers on the fort were slaughtered. This sad incident made us feel very sorrow of the mistake made by the Killedar.

"Peth is a small fort," said Kiran, reining in my galloping thoughts, as we negotiated our way through the thick, green brush. As we climbed, slowly, steadily, the landscape slowly turned into the familiar look of the Deccan; Long stretches of flat ground, dotted by summits, slopes and sudden bits of uneven terrain.

I thought of the Mother Hirkani who climbed the shoulder of a difficult mountain at night time and we all are tired of walking on this path which is without any risk

In the distance, hills rose, some over 2500 feet, all black basalt and sparse vegetation. Each of them a stronghold that laughed at the need for artificial defenses.

We followed the barely noticeable trail that narrowed steadily as we climbed. We stopped, and rested, while I and Amit started shouting at Kiran for allowing us to eat some thing.

Instead of feeling pity of us He asked us to shut up. I did, but Amit went ahead with his sentences. Ignoring Amit’s mach-mach Kiran continued to walk ahead, Sweating profusely, I started off again, getting to the base of a flight of steps in which were the rock cut caves.

Taking a deep breath, we climbed them and reached the caves. Near the Bhairoba’s cave there was a tiny temple and a small water tank, both in a state of ruin, turned bald by centuries of wind, rain and sun.

We rested for a while inside the caves and after noting down all the possible details of the cave we decided to climb up to the summit.

Poignancy, the windows of the cave were used to throw all the garbage by the trekkers, which was accumulated outside the cave disturbing the dignity of sanctum.

The climb towards the summit was a celestial experience and seemed as if we were ascending up on a tower.

At a height of around 1500 feet we came on very small plateau, sheer drop on all sides and the gravity defying gorges made us feel exhilarated.

With capturing the seraphic views of Bhimashankar, Kalwantini’s Mahal, Nakhinda in our eyes and cameras we decided to have small nap.

After an hour of rest, punctuated only by Kiran’s snorting, we began our descent.

On the one hand, the crumbling remains stood testimony to one man's power; on the other, it spoke volumes of his helplessness and desperate need for protection. The price one had to pay for another man's freedom.

Harshal Ravindra Mahajan.

(The writer is author of ‘A Rendezvous with Sahyadri’)